Enough about stupid Turkey, didnt realize I double dipped it.

4/12/07 Training to Romania (from Sofia)

Yet again, I leave another wonderful city wondering if it was given adequate time or just the right amount. Wonderful people, weather, and enough history to make you want to keep reading. The lulling sounds of the train over the tracks is complemented nicely by the purplish haze looming over the nearby mountains. my time spent in Sofia wasnt as much af a culture shock (accept for the cryllic alphabet) as I had expected/sought but my experience was much more than I could have predicted. Their are large buildings, big businesses and yes, McDonalds. There are people that speak English and those that dont. I think one of the things I take from this place, and the trip in general, is the universiality (word or no?) of life. I have been massaged, scrubbed, and bathed by old Turkish men in Istanbul and consumed homemade wine and rakia (liquid fire at 50% alcohol) in a cave carved into the mountains of the smallest city in Bulgaria. Ive heard the Koran belted over the loud speakers and visited the most holiest of Orthodox monastaries tucked away in the Rila Mountains. But perhaps the most important experience has been the realization that were all the same. Their are certain commonalities that supercede, language, religion, geography; that we all share. I feel that if I figure out what these are, that in some way I will be better off for it. That these truths will give wisdom and that wisdom and knowledge will lead to inner peace and happiness. By no means am I comparing what I am about to write to universal truths, but these similarities were undeniable. Without stating anything profoundly, here are a few things that I have either noticed, enjoyed, or feel like writing:
*little girls love to get dressed up, and boss each other around, while little boys are bored unless if not trying to cause trouble.
*teenagers will smoke and drink in public parks
*puppy love is either nice to see or nauseating, dependinng on your mood
*love is love and beauty, beauty
*a smile and thank you are always appreciated
*dogs love people-people love dogs (except some Muslims)
*people struggle to survive and their pain may or may not be visible
*alcohol is a social lubricant and people will make questionable decisions when using it
*springtime adds a bounce to everyones step
*Women are beautiful--everywhere (especially Bulgaria)
*Taxi drivers are not to be trusted
*Their is no better way to meet somebody than over some bbq and a few beers
*This is stupid and Im now stopping

Again, the people made my experience in Bulgaria. People bend over backwards to help you once asked and live much richer than their means. More later, not sure when, but keep checking in if you want to see what Im up to.

Since Ive been overwhelmed with requests to enlighten you as to my travels and state of mind I decided it was time for an update. After a glorious two weeks spent at home, I embarked on a two week vacation which entailed Istanbul, Sofia (bulgaria), and Brasov (Romania). As opposed to re-writing much of what I had recorded at the time, I will instead copy the journal that I kept at the time. Since it was a journal entry, the writing may not be as refined as you are all used to when reading my work, but without further ado--

4-10-07 Sofia, Bulgaria

I cant begin to think of the present without at least some reflection on Istanbul. Great City-'bout sums it up. It outdid any expectations/pre-conceived notions that I might have had. I cant remember a malevolent soul in my experiences (4/4-4/9). Being from the US its hard to not have some biases against Muslims after 911, but the trip more than reversed those prejudices. It is a city and a country that I would like to come back to. In addition to the great hospitality I received from Aydin (a friend that I had met at the hostel in Barcelona), I met a few guys from the hostel that would be welcome guests anytime down the road. While following the path through the Basilica Cistern (Originally built by Constantine, held water for the city), a sudden compulsion for my fist Turkish coffee came about me. Upon showing some interest, I was invited to have a seat with two men and a woman having lunch. One turned out to be the owner, the other two a colleague and sister. Asli, the sister, turned out to be a travel agent;at first making a sales pitch and later refusing my business on the account of our friendship because there was a cheaper way of doing what I wanted to do.

Hearing the prayer belted over the loudspeakers of the minarets was one of the first and most lasting events that reminded me of where I was. From Aydin ive learned of the parallels to our culture-he is Islamic but doesnt pray five times per day, in fact only his grandmother does. Just like the states where the young people grow up with religion but the churches are normally full of the elder. It was quite a sight to see the people washing their feet outside the mosques and even inside the grand bazaar (giant, covered market place ). Their compulsion with 'cleanliness' only crosses over to absurd when noting their adversion to dogs because they are not viewed as 'clean.' Is there anything more pure than the gait or wag of the tail of a golden retriever puppy?

The carpet salesmen are good at what they do, all of them that I came across were natural salesmen. Nothing felt too forced or contrived. I think the experience of buying my carpet was almost worth the money itself. Youare their sole care in the world at that moment, and who doesnt like getting treated so well. A glass of delicious tea is normally how the process begins, followed by various carpets being thrown around the room and a description of what type of material is used, where its from, and what type of knots were used to make it. Yet they are not too overbearing. Salesmen of all levels must put on their charm, but I sensed an underlaying warmth in almost all. When no sale was made, there was no abrasiveness or contempt. One salesman lured me into his shop even though I made it very clear I wasnt buying anything. We spent the next 20 min talking about my travels (and his) and carpets were never spoken of again.

The people really make the city what it is. Sure, there is much natural beauty and impressive architecture, but all that sits as a backdrop to the genuine hospitality that I was lucky enough to have been presented with.

Part two coming later.

After a much needed and over-indulged trip back to the states, I am now in Istanbul. While home I realized for the first time, with full effect, that there is no place like home. While growing up there and in requisite returns, I was always able to appreciate the area, my family, and the comforts of home, but without something to compare it to, it never made the impression that it did this last time. As Americans, we really do live a luxurious lifestyle. Nothing compares to the grandeurs? of the states, everything is big, spacious, even over the top, but that is one of many things that separates it. Celebrating my moms Bday, St. Paddy's Day, and March Madness, there is no way that I could have chosen a better time to come home. Living off the spoils made my departure all the more difficult, but since then I have not missed a thing. It makes me think of what other things I could live without in perfect contentment that I consider to be essential.

After a brutal travel day, which included a 2hour nap before leaving, delays, and a sudden moment of sickness on my second leg that plastering the plane bathroom with vomit, I arrived in Istanbul delirious and tired. After being ripped off by my taxi driver (which I knew was coming), I straggled into Sultan Hostel and lay my head down for a few hours of sleep. Invigorated, I toured the streets, got my bearings and had a kebab enhanced by live turkish music and dancers.

The people here are very friendly, some because they are good hearted and others because they are good businessmen. I like to dissuade all into thinking that I am a potential buyer and look for the true goodness of the Turkish. So far, I have been called by name by all the people that work at the hostel and adjoining bar and have had a great time.

Rugs here grow on trees, as do hookahs and gorgeous tile and ceramic work. After a day of siteseeing (all of which was impressive-blue mosque, haghia sophia, topkapi palace, hippodrome and obelisks, blah blah blah) I headed back for a lil bed time and am now in the bar eating a salad and having a beer. Efes is the popular beer here, quite good. Im really enjoying myself, I feel very mature, maybe its because the fellow travellers here arent frat boys and girls. Instead, there are many couples in there 30's and up and the pervading feeling here is a little more sophisticated as a whole (although im sure there isnt a shred of truth to this feeling). As sad as I was to leave the states, the hospitality here hasnt left me homesick.

Clean city, genuine people, good food, lots of amazingly impressive sights and a feel unlike any other place I have visited. My only hope is to meet up with my Istanbul friends in the next day or so and get a more personal view of the place.