Since Ive been overwhelmed with requests to enlighten you as to my travels and state of mind I decided it was time for an update. After a glorious two weeks spent at home, I embarked on a two week vacation which entailed Istanbul, Sofia (bulgaria), and Brasov (Romania). As opposed to re-writing much of what I had recorded at the time, I will instead copy the journal that I kept at the time. Since it was a journal entry, the writing may not be as refined as you are all used to when reading my work, but without further ado--

4-10-07 Sofia, Bulgaria

I cant begin to think of the present without at least some reflection on Istanbul. Great City-'bout sums it up. It outdid any expectations/pre-conceived notions that I might have had. I cant remember a malevolent soul in my experiences (4/4-4/9). Being from the US its hard to not have some biases against Muslims after 911, but the trip more than reversed those prejudices. It is a city and a country that I would like to come back to. In addition to the great hospitality I received from Aydin (a friend that I had met at the hostel in Barcelona), I met a few guys from the hostel that would be welcome guests anytime down the road. While following the path through the Basilica Cistern (Originally built by Constantine, held water for the city), a sudden compulsion for my fist Turkish coffee came about me. Upon showing some interest, I was invited to have a seat with two men and a woman having lunch. One turned out to be the owner, the other two a colleague and sister. Asli, the sister, turned out to be a travel agent;at first making a sales pitch and later refusing my business on the account of our friendship because there was a cheaper way of doing what I wanted to do.

Hearing the prayer belted over the loudspeakers of the minarets was one of the first and most lasting events that reminded me of where I was. From Aydin ive learned of the parallels to our culture-he is Islamic but doesnt pray five times per day, in fact only his grandmother does. Just like the states where the young people grow up with religion but the churches are normally full of the elder. It was quite a sight to see the people washing their feet outside the mosques and even inside the grand bazaar (giant, covered market place ). Their compulsion with 'cleanliness' only crosses over to absurd when noting their adversion to dogs because they are not viewed as 'clean.' Is there anything more pure than the gait or wag of the tail of a golden retriever puppy?

The carpet salesmen are good at what they do, all of them that I came across were natural salesmen. Nothing felt too forced or contrived. I think the experience of buying my carpet was almost worth the money itself. Youare their sole care in the world at that moment, and who doesnt like getting treated so well. A glass of delicious tea is normally how the process begins, followed by various carpets being thrown around the room and a description of what type of material is used, where its from, and what type of knots were used to make it. Yet they are not too overbearing. Salesmen of all levels must put on their charm, but I sensed an underlaying warmth in almost all. When no sale was made, there was no abrasiveness or contempt. One salesman lured me into his shop even though I made it very clear I wasnt buying anything. We spent the next 20 min talking about my travels (and his) and carpets were never spoken of again.

The people really make the city what it is. Sure, there is much natural beauty and impressive architecture, but all that sits as a backdrop to the genuine hospitality that I was lucky enough to have been presented with.

Part two coming later.